Auntie Fashion

I’m the fashion world’s most-enduring muse.

Jeremy Scott F/W 2001

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Jeremy Scott F/W 2001

Blogging about Jeremy Scott made me feel nostalgic for the days when the designer showed in Paris.  His Fall/Winter 2001 presentation, in particular, was a great moment in the history of antifashion.

Although it wasn’t that long ago, it’s easy to forget what made 2001 different from 2008.  The biggest distinction is that the “good taste” movement hadn’t overtaken fashion yet.  Makeover shows weren’t a dime a dozen, one-in-two people weren’t calling themselves stylists, and the red carpet was still a couple of seasons away from becoming the circus it is today. 

Designers were reacting against 90s minimalism with luxe looks.  Tom Ford was leading the charge as the creative director for Gucci.  While rave reviews kept pouring in for his ready-to-wear collections, his real contribution to the label was in the accessories department.  Under Ford, Gucci was about to become a global powerhouse based on its brands.

Taking fashion from the Calvin Klein/Helmut Lang 90s into the new century meant making some big changes to the way ready-to-wear collections and accessories were designed.  The biggest change, in retrospect, had to be the “bling” that Ford brought back to fashion: A sleeker, sexier version of Gianni Versace-style glamour.  Understatement had given its way to overstatement.

Jeremy Scott must have sensed where the trends were going when he responded to the fashion climate of the moment with this collection.  Choosing Vanna White as his muse — she was one of the only celebrities in Hollywood who didn’t pare down her look in the 90s — he put on a show that brilliantly poked fun at the desire to look rich and glamorous.

Remember, this was the time when logos had just returned to fashion — you could still find classic Louis Vuitton logo bags in thrift stores.  Suddenly, everyone was plastering their name all over everything.  Fashion had gone from pared-down to pumped-up overnight.  Appearing as if you had spent a lot of money on your clothes was becoming equated with good taste.  The nylon Prada bag of the 90s had become a garish Gucci bag, covered in tacky doodads and advertising: The epitome of overkill.

And overkill was Jeremy Scott’s speciality.  Just get a load of the matching coat and luggage set in the photo I posted above.  Or click on the link to view the slideshow on style.com.  Eight years ago, Jeremy Scott virtually (and presciently) predicted how vulgar fashion would become by the middle of the decade.  For that reason, I rank this show as one of the greatest runway presentations I’ve ever seen.  It was positively uncanny how he knew where fashion was going before the rest of us did.

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September 20, 2008 at 5:18 pm

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