Auntie Fashion

I’m the fashion world’s most-enduring muse.

Mary Katrantzou

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Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou

Click the link above to watch a short slide show presentation of Mary Katrantzou’s S/S 2010 collection.

Like a few other London-based designers (Jonathan Saunders comes to mind), Katrantzou has a knack for creating standout printed garments that consistently redefine the cutting edge of printmaking technology.  I guess I’m impressed by this bunch because they’re so fantastically modern.  And that reminds me of a story.

I remember working for Bazaar in 2001 when I pointed out a fabulous dress to my boss.  It was a masterpiece of pintucking in simple white cotton, and I hadn’t seen that sort of obsessive-compulsive workmanship in a ready-to-wear garment in quite some time.  I told her that’s where fashion was going, and she gave me a response akin to saying “Whatever!”

Within a couple of seasons ruching and pintucking were everywhere.  Those techniques evolved into the draping trend that has infected eveningwear like the plague.  Designers are still sending goddess-draped dresses down the runway, even after the garments have become a terrible cliché perpetuated by every Project Runway contestant who can’t draft a pattern.

I guess that’s why I find these print artists to be such a breath of fresh air.   At least they’re working in a medium that still seems fresh, and they’re working hard to show me things that I haven’t seen before.  I’d probably feel the same about some fabulous knitwear designer who could create equally intriguing garments with a single ball of yarn and a couple of knitting needles.

If you’re going to be a fashion designer, you need to know what your strengths are.  Furthermore, you need to develop those strengths until they become the backbone of your business.  Alexander McQueen has his tailoring.  Sonia Rykiel has her knitwear.  Emilio Pucci had his prints.  If you’re good at what you do, fashion will come around to you eventually.

On that note, I hope Mary Katrantzou sticks with it because she might just be the next Emilio Pucci.  This little collection blew my mind!


Written by Post Author

September 20, 2009 at 4:03 pm

Posted in Random Reviews

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