Archive for February 2010
Marni
The trend I’ve chosen to call “The New Maximalism” reared it’s head at another distinctive show in Milan. Consuelo Castiglioni’s runway presentation for Marni was certainly an expression of “studied eccentricity,” as the always brilliant Sarah Mower of style.com called it. But it was also quite a delightful example of this organized chaos that I’m seeing on the most intriguing runways of the F/W 2010 season.
Now that I’ve had a moment to think about it, I guess I saw it first at Giles. I’ve been singing Giles Deacon’s praises as loud as anyone who isn’t from London (where they worship him like a god) for a few seasons now, claiming that he’s the greatest fashion designer working today, but I haven’t been paying attention to his work long enough to make bold statements about his influence on the industry in general. I’m seeing it now, though — especially on this runway. Marni had head-to-toe matching, smart separates styled subversively, and — as Sarah Mower put it — individual pieces that a woman “can wear in the safe knowledge that they’re not going to add 15 pounds and a slight look of the unhinged to her appearance.” I’ve been praising Giles Deacon for making the same sort of things since I became one of his disciples a few seasons back.
Not everything was terrific, but overall it was a terrific show, and maybe even a look into the future of fashion.
Happy Birthday, Natalia Vodianova & Karolina Kurková
Natalia Vodianova (second) & Karolina Kurková (fifth)
Happy birthday, Natalia and Karolina. I don’t know who those other girls are, but I don’t care because it isn’t their birthday.
Midgets Unite!
Simon Doonan has weighed-in on the topic of bloggers sitting in the front row of fashion shows. He told GQ “I loved Thom Browne, especially the groovy new eyewear, but the shows this season were full of teen/tween bloggers. I feel like they are trying to nudge me out of my front-row seat. Luckily, I have a plan for next season. Since they are all about my height, I am going to impersonate one of them. I am going to wear a doily on my head (Tavi!) and tell everyone I am a teen blogger. If they ask why I am so wrinkled, I will tell them that I have progeria.”
I have a better idea! Why not place height restrictions on whoever is sitting in the front row? I wouldn’t want to be the unlucky editor of some second-rate publication who was forced to sit in the second row behind André Leon Talley, or some ex-supermodel who is five-foot-sixteen in her heels. And if André doesn’t want to move back, maybe he could let Simon sit on his lap. It would be the nice thing to do, right?
Just Cavalli
While I haven’t watched enough of the Milan F/W 2010 shows to comment on the prevailing trends, I was intrigued by the Just Cavalli show. It reminded me of Anna Sui’s recent outing and a trend I’d like to call “The New Maximalism.” Everyone else seems to be writing about the return of minimalism, but there’s something rather fresh about how well-matched these over-the-top maximal looks appear. After a whole decade of Marc Jacobs-inspired mismatched runway styling and migraine-inducing Forever 21 window displays, I’m really digging how these cacophonic outfits are put together. There’s something to be said for getting dressed with the lights on, even when you’re the sort of person who likes to wear everything all at once.
It feels new, and that’s really all I ever want from designers.
November 1993
Cover: November 1993
Context: From November 17-22, the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) passes the legislative houses in Canada, the U.S.A. and Mexico. Snoop Doggy Dog releases his debut solo album “Doggystyle” on November 23. Steven Spielberg’s “Schindler’s List” premieres on November 30. “I Would Do Anything for Love (but I Won’t Do That)” by Meat Loaf spends the entire month atop the Billboard Hot 100 chart.
Points of Interest: Cover model Johanna Black has a rather impressive resume on the IMDB, including stints on “Punk’d” and “Entourage.”
What Tyra Would Say: “It looks as if you’re trying to smize and smile at the same time. What you may not know is that when I was seventeen and modeling in Paris, I nearly sprained my face doing that exact same thing. If I hadn’t learned my lesson from that experience, I may not have made it to the top of the modeling business. Is that what you want, Johanna?”
What Auntie Fashion Says: I really, really, really hate it when women with long hair pull it over so that it cascades down one shoulder. It’s just one of those things that makes me want to punch someone — sort of like Beyonce’s voice.
Grade: B.
Happy Birthday, Chilli
Happy birthday, Rozonda Ocelean Thomas aka Chilli. Jeez, who wouldn’t want to be called “Rozonda”?
Happy Birthday, Greg Rikaart
Happy birthday, Greg Rikaart. I liked you more when you were the craziest person in Genoa City. Maybe you could stop taking your medication again . . .
Vivienne Tam is Chinese?
Designer Vivienne Tam presented a collection based upon the Chinese zodiac during last week’s New York shows. When I first read about the show, I said to myself “What does she know about astrology?”, followed by “What does she know about being Chinese?”
Okay, I’m kidding about that last part. But what I love the most about Vivienne Tam is that she is the epitome of a global designer. She can pull together influences from every corner of the globe without ever making clothes that look like reproductions of ethnic costumes. I love how I actually had to guess which zodiac sign was which when I watched her show — and I know a ton about Chinese astrology. I suppose the look I posted above is my sign, the Snake. Dragons are scaly, too. Maybe I need to go back and look everything over again. At any rate, I’m fascinated by the collection, and I want to look at it again.
You might remember reading that my fashion astrologer friend Greg Polkosnik proposed a similar design challenge to the producers of “Project Runway.” He wanted them to get the contestants to do a not-so-literal interpretation of the twelve western zodiac signs based on the principles expounded in his book, “Cosmically Chic.” However, when they did get around to using the zodiac as the inspiration for a challenge, what they got was Blayne’s infamous “pooping fabric” dress — the worst creation to stroll down the runway in the history of the show.
Oh well. They got what they paid for, which was nothing. Maybe they’ll be inspired by Vivienne Tam’s smart, wearable Chinese astrology collection and propose a challenge that creates clothes rather than costumes. I’d love to see the look on a contestant’s face as they pick “Ox” out of the bag!
Happy Birthday, Isabelle Fuhrman
Happy birthday, Isabelle Fuhrman. I loved you in the movie, “Orphan.” In fact, your character in the film reminded me a lot of Moose Jaw Fashion Week 2012 muse Marjie Withajay, who also shares your birthday. Who says astrology doesn’t work?
Celebrity Spokesperson Needed: Apply Within
Earlier today Jennifer Campbell of “FASHION Magazine” hinted to me that she would be digging into her archive of fabulous gowns to wear this beauty from the Jonathan Saunders F/W 2007 collection on Wear a Gown to Work Day 2010. That made me realize that I still haven’t got a spokesperson for the event, and so I’ve decided to advertise for one.
If you’re a glamorous style icon, I’d like to hear from you. No experience is necessary. Must be familiar with MS Office 2007 and PowerPoint. Okay, I’m kidding about that last part, so call me, Lindsay Lohan . . .
Auntie Fashion 
